Parrots perch on a banana tree, feasting on the still green fruit. In the distance, the howls of monkeys echo through the forest. A yellow viper, leaf-carrying ants, and colorful beetles thrive in the muddy hillsides. The unique sights and sounds of the rainforest are as beautiful as they are threatened. It takes some serious climbing to experience the primary forest in Ecuador, as the vast majority has been cut down. Global demand for palm oil, chocolate, and wood are the primary drivers of deforestation in the Cotocachi-Cayapas region of Northwest Ecuador.

On our drive in, Garrett Seagers, Whole Forest co-founder, stopped to point out a particular area of deforested land, owned by a logging company. From a distance, the area Garrett pointed out would never jump out as being obviously deforested, but with a second look, the entire area had been cut and replaced with perfect lines of a single tree species ideal for timber. Closer into the community of Cristobal Colon, the location of Whole Forest’s sustainable balsa and hardwood operation, the deforestation is obvious to the eye. Endless rows of palm trees line the area along the road into town, only broken up by neatly organized lines of cacao.

After getting to know Whole Forest’s production facility, staff and community, we prepared to head deeper into the rainforest. A short canoe ride upriver lead us to the start of our trek. We hiked from our shelter right up the ridge until we made our way to a series of incredible waterfalls. The cool clean water was a welcomed treat after hours of intense climbing through thick mud and even thicker humidity. On day two, we went deeper yet into the protected land Whole Forest stewards. Old growth trees stood tall and proud, volunteering their trunks to lush green vines and plants, while new growth was fiercely competing for access to light on the forest floor. Every switchback we climbed seemed to provide a new perspective. It is an experience of sensory overload, the sights, smells, sensations and sounds of the forest overwhelm.

After getting to know Whole Forest’s production facility, staff and community, we prepared to head deeper into the rainforest. A short canoe ride upriver lead us to the start of our trek. We hiked from our shelter right up the ridge until we made our way to a series of incredible waterfalls. The cool clean water was a welcomed treat after hours of intense climbing through thick mud and even thicker humidity. On day two, we went deeper yet into the protected land Whole Forest stewards. Old growth trees stood tall and proud, volunteering their trunks to lush green vines and plants, while new growth was fiercely competing for access to light on the forest floor. Every switchback we climbed seemed to provide a new perspective. It is an experience of sensory overload, the sights, smells, sensations and sounds of the forest overwhelm.

Upon our return to town, we had a chance to reflect on our journey getting to know this beautiful region, the threats posed, and the opportunities ahead for conservation. Completely exhausted yet somehow newly energized, we dove into a planning meeting about soon to come conservation projects between Alta Andina and Whole Forest. By studying maps of the region, getting to know local landowners and other interests in the area, we talked through our next steps to put the next strategic piece of land under conservation. We left with a first hand experience of the wonders and magic the forest offers and a renewed vigor for the importance of our conservation efforts.